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Over the years we have been asked a lot of questions about the different types of silver used in the modern, vintage and antique jewellery we sell. So read on for a useful list of answers to the most asked questions on silver jewellery.
Silver is a soft white malleable metal known for having the best electrical and thermal conductivity, and the highest reflectivity of any metal. It is one of the the first five metals ever to be discovered along with gold, tin, lead and iron. Silver items have been found dating back to 4000 BC.
Above:Solid sterling silver hearts necklace and sterling silver frogs bracelet
When silver is extracted from the ground it is generally mixed in with other ores such as galenta and argentite. It is then required to go through a process of refining to extract the silver. The extent of the refining process determines the purity and value of the silver that is produced.
A decimal numbering system called "millesimal fineness" is used to determine the purity of the silver produced for example .900 silver is made of 90% silver and 10% other metals.
Sterling silver jewellery or "925 silver" is essentially an alloy made of 92.5 % silver and 7.5 % copper.
As silver in its original form is quite soft and liquid it is mixed with other metals usually copper, zinc or nickel to increase its hardness and durability . This allows it to be used in jewellery, coins, photography, electronics and other items.
Above: Georg Jensen sterling silver lamb and ivy brooch and Claus B Andersen Denmark silver necklace
Sterling silver is popular for jewellery making as it is soft and malleable . The cost of silver is also much lower than the price of gold, making it more affordable for the larger population.
The 7.5% copper element in sterling silver means that it can tarnish, however, it can easily be cleaned to bring back its bright shiny silver look. The majority of silver jewellery today will be sterling silver.
Sterling silver is not recommended though for fine jewellery with expensive gemstone settings due to its soft nature. Platinum or gold are often used instead as the harder nature of these materials mean that the gemstone settings are more secure and less prone to damage.
2 )What is Fine Silver?
Fine silver is defined by its purity and it is 99.9% pure silver. It is purer than sterling silver (92.5 % silver). It's soft nature means that it can be worked into extremely fine wires or beaten into sheets that are thin enough to see through.
Fine silver (sometimes also called coin silver) was used for making silver coins until around 1837 . Fine silver is generally too soft for commercial or jewellery use other than for bezel wire, as its softness means it can be easily shaped around stones.
It is commonly used in electrical wiring and also for investment items such as silver bullion bars, rounds and coins.
830 silver is a type of silver often seen in silver jewellery from Scandinavian countries. It is real silver with a reasonably high purity level. The 830 number means that the jewellery is 83% silver and 17% alloy.
Above: Jorma Laine Finland 830 silver pendant and William Fuglede 830 silver brooch
Although less pure than 925 sterling silver or fine silver, one advantage of 830 silver is that it is somewhat more durable. The jewellery marking of "830" or "830S" should be visible on the piece
For more information on Scandinavian silver jewellery see our article The Ultimate Guide to Danish Silver Jewellery Designers, and The Illustrated Guide to Norwegian Silver Jewellery
800 Silver is similar to 830 silver but is slightly less pure. It comprises 80% silver and 20% alloy. It is commonly seen in jewellery from Italy and Germany
Above: Carnelian and 800 silver bracelet and Perli 800 silver and aventurine ring
European Silver, also commonly referred to as “Continental silver”, is a wide definition that general refers to all jewellery and silverware produced in the European Continent.
This “European” or Continental description is generally intended as in opposition to “English silver” and applies to silver items that do not have evidence of recognisable British or American silver marks.
It is a wide category that that comprises silver from many countries including Italy, Germany, Portugal, Austria and Spain.
900 silver is made of 90% silver and 10% alloy and therefore has a relatively high purity level. Sometimes called “coin silver” it was commonly used in older American coins .
The majority of coins produced before 1965 in America were made of 90% silver and 10% copper. 900 silver is also seen in silver jewellery and other items from Germany, China and Latin American countries.
Above: Bjorn Halvordersen 900 silver brooch
Mexico has a long history of silver smithing and is one of the worlds leading producers of silver.
In the 1700's rich deposits silver were found in Taxco, Mexico . Taxco became known as key place for the production of fine silver jewellery and silver objects.
Most silver in Mexico is a least .925 silver, with purity ranging from 925 silver up to .999 fine silver.
Above: Margot de Taxco Mexico necklace and Mexico Taxco 925 silver floral necklace
For more information on Mexican silver see our article Mexican Silver Jewellery Designers
Brittania silver is an alloy comprising 95.8 % silver with the remainder usually of copper. It is softer than sterling silver .
It was introduced in Britain in 1697 as the legal standard for “wrought plate” to replace sterling silver in an effort to improve the coinage of the time.
After complaints from the trade that it was too soft and difficult to work with sterling silver was reintroduced as the standard for wrought plate in 1720.
Above: Royal Mint fine 999 silver coin.
Britannia silver remained as an optional standard for silversmiths until 1999. Since them it is denoted by the hallmark number 958 with the Britannia symbol being optional.
The silver bullion coins of the Royal Mint in London known as "Britannias" were made in Britannia standard silver until 2012, when they began using 999 pure silver.
Nickel silver is a term for a metal alloy of copper with nickel at times combined with other metals such as zinc tin lead and cadmium.
The reason for its name is it silvery appearance, however, it contains no actual silver unless it is plated.
Nickel silver first became commonly used as a base metal for silverware and silver plated cutlery.
It is used in costume jewellery, zippers, keys and coins amongst other items. Another term for Nickel silver is German silver.
Silver plated jewellery is when a thin coating of pure silver is applied over other base metals - often brass is the base metal used.
The technique was first developed in the 1830’s and went on to became widely used.
It provides benefits such as prevention of corrosion, and improved conductivity.
It was also useful for the decoration of jewellery, and reduced the price of jewellery compared to solid silver items.
Silver plated jewellery is usually seen in inexpensive costume jewellery.
The downsides of silver plate jewellery is that as the silver coating is thin it can tarnish, wear. or easily be damaged showing the base metal below.
Additionally if nickel is present in the base metal , some people can suffer a dermatitis type allergic reaction.
Gold vermeil (also know as silver gilt) is gold plated sterling silver and is seen as a more affordable option than solid gold jewellery.
The gold layer that is applied to the sterling silver is extra thick (around five times thicker than gold plating), and this gives the piece a hard wearing quality gold finish.
Above: Long gold vermeil multi gem necklace
We use gold vermeil in our contemporary jewellery, as it gives a durable, luxurious gold finish without the hefty price tag of real gold.
Silver items classed as vintage silver jewellery are those pieces which are at least 20 years old. Antique silver jewellery pieces are those which are at least 100 years old.
Above: David Shackman vintage silver bracelet 1974 and Antique Bernard Hertz brooch estimated 1910
Silver hallmarks on jewellery can provide information on the type of silver, 900, 925 or 830 etc, the place of origin and the year the item was made. Check your jewellery for these small markings on the rear of your pieces.
For more information on UK silver hallmarks :
-https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/hallmarking-guidance-notes/hallmarking-is-the-law-guidance-summary
Silver and platinum can appear very similar at first ,however, there are differences between the two metals. Both metals are grey in colour , however silver general has a duller grey appearance than platinum which is much shinier and brighter.
Above: Set of platinum rings
The big difference though is in durability. Silver is soft and can tarnish and wear down over time, whereas platinum is much harder.
Platinum rings are usually 90-95% platinum . Ty are hard enough to endure the test of everyday wear, and are therefore a popular choice for engagement rings.
Platinum is one of the most expensive metals used in jewellery , with silver being more affordable. Platinum jewellery is ideal for fine jewellery which can be worn quite often.
It is normal for silver jewellery to tarnish over time. When silver is exposed to certain gases in the air (in particular sulphur) it reacts with the gas.
The silver darkens and discolours and a layer of tarnish can appear.
Other everyday items can also effect silver jewellery. Perfumes, soaps, hand creams, makeup, cleaning chemicals, air humidity and chlorine from pools are just some of the things that can all cause silver to tarnish.
There are different methods of cleaning silver jewellery. The first thing to do however is give your jewellery a wash with some mild liquid soap in warm water to get rid of any dirt or dust .
Above: Tarnished silver brooches pre cleaning
Electolysis is a good method of cleaning heavily tarnished silver as an alternative to chemical polish cleaners. It removes the tarnish using electrolyte action without removing any of the underlying metal .
You can buy ultrasonic jewellery cleaning machines for this purpose, or you can can do this yourself using homemade electrochemical cleaning methods.
The do it yourself version of this method involves using household items such as aluminium foil, salt, baking powder, and detergent. For more detail on this method read here.
There is lots of advice online about cleaning silver jewellery but not all of it is a good idea. We would advise that you do not use abrasive items like baking soda paste and toothpaste, or acidic items like vinegar and lemon juice or any mixture of the above!
To try and keep your silver jewellery looking as new and as tarnish free as possible , make sure you remove it when swimming or when cleaning with harsh chemicals.
When storing silver jewellery it is best to put it in a small dry container which does not allow the air to pass though it.
Leaving it in the open air allows household dust and grime to gather, and it will tarnish quicker.
Make sure chains are not tangled and check that gemstones and metal are not rubbing against each other. Try to clean your jewellery at least a couple of times a year.
Article by Modern Vintage Style
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