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Anthony Hawksley (1921-91) studied at the Maidstone School of Art, before later training as a silversmith at the Royal College of Art, London. He became know for his modern crisp designs and was inspired by the work of Georg Jensen, the renowned Danish silverware designer.
Above : Anthony Hawksley silver necklace, earrings, ring, and bracelet suite and modernist silver bracelet and ring
In 1951 he exhibited his work at the Festival of Britain for Goldsmiths' Hall. In 1952 he began teaching silversmithing and also lecturing in both Oxford and Birmingham.
Payne and Son's in Oxford started selling his jewellery and silverware, and his pieces were commissioned for private collections as well as the Oxford colleges.
In 1981 his work was exhibited in Boston at the Westminster Gallery. His jewellery designs were modernist, and sculptural nature. The London Victoria and Albert museum have a silver collar necklace he made in the 1960's. He lived in several places including North Oxford and Devon, and had a workshop at his home until his death in 1991.
Above : Hawksley silver necklace & earrings late 1950's and Hawksley silver necklace suit hallmarked London 1955
Michael Bolton was born in 1938 in West London. After the war started in 1939, the family moved to Kent where he spent his childhood. He began his career in commerce working for a shipping company and American Express.
In 1970, after taking inspiration from an exhibition of Gerda Flockinger's work at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London he decided to change direction and became a self taught silversmith. Within 5 years he had mastered silversmithing.
Above: Michael Bolton 1970 aquamarine silver ring and silver and tigers eye ring
His natural talent for design meant that he had soon registered his makers mark at Goldsmiths Hall and was producing jewellery and silverware. His distinctive style was influenced by the Arts and Crafts Movement, and Celtic and medieval heritage.
His pieces were superbly made , often chunky with a hammered type finish. He worked to commission using young assistants and designers at his workshop in Cornwall, and received many commission from private individuals, companies, corporations, and institutions.
His clients included Julie Andrews, Glenda Jackson, and Lord Palumbo. In 2003 he was part of the 'Love Story' exhibition in the Goldsmith's Hall making jewellery and a collar for Tony Ford's model of a bride.
Above: Michael Bolton 1970's silver bangle, ring, and cuff links, and Michael Bolton 1983 silver "beetle" ring
Born in 1930 in North Yorkshire, Graham Watling started his career as a Commando in the Royal Marines. He then worked as teacher employed as Head of the Arts and Crafts Department. After 17 years in teaching he decided to become a full time gold and silversmith.
He trained at Loughborough University where he gained a BA Hons in silversmithing. He then registered with the Assay Office in London obtaining his own hallmark shortly after graduation.
Above: Graham Watling pendant and Graham Watling silver necklace and earrings set
His workshop and showroom in Lacock, Wiltshire named Watling, was established in 1972. His work featuring his distinctive modernist style was exhibited at the Bluecoat Gallery, Liverpool, the Craft Council in London (1971), and at world fairs in Tokyo and Montreal (1969).
His children Jane and John Watling each have their own hallmarks and have carried on the silversmithing tradition. By the time Graham died in 1996 his business had become established as one one of the foremost Gold and Silversmiths in England
Above: Jane Watling bird's nest necklace and Graham Watling 1980's gold and silver collar necklace
Geoffrey Bellamy (1922-1997) joined the RAF when he was 18 in 1940. He flew 112 missions in World war 11 and was awarded the Flying Cross and Bar medal for exemplary gallantry.
After the war he studied at Birmingham College of Art, before training at the Royal College of Art in London, under Robert Godden. After graduation he set up his workshop in West London
He was influenced by the Scandinavian design ethos, as were many of his fellow students at the time. He made mostly small items including brooches for retail firms such as George Tarratt. He went on to form a silver production company with Ivan Tarratt named Bellamy & Tarratt .
He became the recipient of a Design Centre award in 1961, and in 1965 joined the Council of Industrial Design. His enjoyment of teaching saw him return to education at the Sheffield College of Art becoming Head of Silversmithing.
Above: Geoffrey Bellamy silver gazelle brooch and lotus brooch
Wendy Ramshaw was born in Sunderland in 1939. She studied illustration and fabric design at the College of Art and Industrial Design in Newcastle from 1956 to 1960 , before undertaking a teaching diploma at Reading University.
Wendy Ramshaw stacking ring set and gold and gemstone necklace 1970's
She first gained acclaim for her work in 1970 after exhibiting her jewellery at the Pace Gallery in London. She displayed several sets of complementary gold rings, some with semi precious stones. When the rings were displayed on a support they appeared as a unified sculptural object.
She went on to design jewellery that pushed the boundaries of sculpture, jewellery, installation and design. She worked in various materials that ranged from paper, plastic, and glass to porcelain and semi precious stones.
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Above: Wendy Ramshaw enamel silver pendulum necklace 1973, and Wendy Ramshaw earrings
After being the recipient of a Design Council award in 1972 she mounted a further solo exhibition at the Electrum Gallery in London. She collaborated several time with her husband David Watkins, a musician and artist who she had married in 1962.
In the mid eighties she produced Picasso's Ladies, a series of necklaces, earrings, headpieces, and rings, inspired by the women Picasso painted.
This work was displayed at the V and A Museum, London, in 1998, and then at the American Craft Museum in 1999. Wendy was appointed a Royal Designer for Industry in 2000 and in 2003 she was awarded a CBE.
Jack Spencer was born in Sheffield in 1934. After his eleven plus exam he was awarded a scholarship to the Junior department at The College of Art in Sheffield, and was undertaking vocational silversmith training from the age of eleven.
At age 15 he began as an apprentice with the firm Walker and Hall and also spent 2 years in the RAF undertaking national service. He went on to work for David Mellor, the Sheffield born Industrial designer in his Park Lane workshop.
Above :Jack Spencer 1973 ribbon pendant (Image courtesy of Johnkelly1800.co.uk) and Jack Spencer 9 carat gold brooch
In 1966 he formed a creative partnership with Keith Tyssen, another Sheffield craftsman producing flatware and cutlery designs. Spencer went on to form his own business in 1966, named Jack Spencer (Silversmith) Ltd, producing beautiful jewellery.
His design ethos was to produce handmade high quality items at prices the average shopper could afford. handmade high quality items at prices the average shopper could afford. Most of the jewellery he made was handmade from just two different gauges and widths of silver and gold wire.
Andrew Grima (1921-2007) was an Anglo-Italian designer who became a very influential figure in modern British post war jewellery design. In 1946, he joined the H.J.Company, his father in law's jewellery firm.
Self taught he soon introduced innovative new ideas and techniques, changing the design emphasis from figurative, to organic and abstract designs. By the 1960's he had become the foremost British modernist jewellery designer , and the Royal and Society jeweller of the era.
Above: Andrew Grima gemstone brooch 1963 and Andrew Grima gold, diamond. and gemstone bracelet 1973
He sold his jewellery from his exclusive gallery in Mayfair which featured the world's first perspex spiral staircase. His striking designs combined yellow gold mounts with a variety of large gemstones.
His designs appeared simple and effortless but required enormous skill to create. He employed around 30 craftsmen and woman in his workshop training them in his design methods. Each piece was carefully set, hand engraved, and finished to an exceedingly high standard.
Above: Andrew Grima gold and turquoise brooch 1968 and diamond and gold broch and ring set 1976
His clients included members of the British Royal family, as well as Barbara Hepworth, Jacqueline Onassis, and Peter Sellers. Famous pieces he created were Queen Elizabeth's ruby brooch, and a lichen brooch made in gold for Princess Margaret.
In 1966 he was given the Royal Warrant of Queen Elizabeth 11 producing jewels for the Queen to present as gifts to foreign dignitaries.
He won numerous awards including the De Beers Diamonds (International) award 11 times , and was the only jeweller to have won the Duke of Edinburgh award for Elegant Design.
Andrew Grima jewellery is still much sought after and highly collectable, and the Grima jewellery brand continues to flourish to this day.
John Donald (1928 -) is a British jeweller, goldsmith, and designer, known for his pioneering design and craftsmanship.
Born in 1928 he studied graphic design at Farnham before being offered the chance to study at the metalwork department of the Royal College of Art, London, in 1952 where he found an affinity for metalwork.
Above: John Donald opal and diamond brooch 1963 and diamond and ruby pendant 1970
Several years later he entered 5 pieces in the International Exhibition of Modern Jewellery 1890-1961 held at the Goldsmiths Hall .
In the early 1960's he was part of a small group who revolutionised jewellery design. His glamorous and modern designs were radical, innovative and respected by art critics. He used simple materials such as uncut crystal and gold rod creating abstract, expressive jewellery pieces.
Above: John Donald gold and diamond panel bracelet and brooch and gold and diamond ring 1972
He went on to establish a successful company with an international reputation .His work can be see in the V&A Museum collections, The Royal Museum in Edinburgh, the Schmuckmuseum in Pforzheim, and The Worshipful Company of Goldsmiths.
His clientele has been varied with pieces owned by heads of industry, heads of state and various Royal Families.
Malcolm Appleby was born in Kent in 1946. He studied at the Central School of Arts and Crafts, SirJohn Cass, and the London Royal College of Art . He worked as an apprentice for John Wilkes in London where he established his skills with intricate metal engraving as a gun engraver.
Above: Malcom Appleby engraved silver ice brooch and Malcom Appleby engraved silver bangle
He moved to Scotland in 1970, where he set up his own studio and developed new techniques for engraving. A metal engraver and silversmith known for his expressive use of line and form, he is considered one of the finest craftsmen working today. His work can be found in many major museums around the world
Norman Grant was born in Forres, Scotland in 1943 . He studied at Gray’s School of Art in Aberdeen in the 1960's and in the late 1960s started to design jewellery. His favourite medium was translucent enamel combined with sterling silver. The relatively low cost of materials enabled him to keep the cost of his jewellery to a reasonable price, and allowed him to be experiment with design.
Above :Norman Grant silver and enamel pendant and silver and enamel "bubbles" bracelet 1970's
After showing his work to local jewellers he was surprised to find that his jewellery had all sold in one morning.
From the start Grant found himself working full time to complete orders, and within a year had a successful jewellery business. The bright colours and pop art patterns reflected the style and fashion of the era.
Grant himself said that he was influenced by the natural forms and coastland landscape of his home. His early designs featured plant cell structures, petals, trees, shells, driftwood, and seaweed. Further reading on Norman Grant can be found here.
Born in Austria in 1972, Gerda emigrated to Britain in 1938. She studied fine art at St Martin's School of Art, and jewellery and enamels at the London Central School of Arts and Crafts. Gerda went on to become an iconic modernist jewellery designer of the British post war era.
In 1962 she founded a new course in experimental jewellery design at the Hornsey School of Art. By the mid 1960's Flockinger had developed a unique, and pioneering style of her own.
Above :Gerda Flockinger 1960's pearl and gold ring and opal dress ring
She used jewellery as an art form breaking away from traditional structure and concepts . She created new techniques which included controlled fusion of precious metals to create broken surfaces, fine textures and organic lines. Her jewellery displayed elements of abstract forms, Eastern , and Art Nouveau influences.
Her work has feature extensively in many museums and institutions worldwide including the V and A Museum, London, and the Pforzheim Museum of Fine Art, Germany. Flockinger was made a "Freeman of the Goldsmiths' company in 1991, and in 1998 was awarded a CBE for her contributions to jewellery design and making.
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Thomas Payne (1935 - ) was a talented artist winning a scholarship to the London Royal College Art. However, he chose instead to return the Midlands studying Industrial Design at the Leicester College of Art.
In 1963, Tom (along with Andrew Grima, John Donald, and David Thomas) was one of only four British jewellers selected to showcase their work in the United States. On returning to the UK Thomas partnered with his college friend Peter Trigg to produce studio pieces for particular clients.
Above :Thomas Payne and Peter Trigg gemstone brooch 1970 and tourmaline and diamond ring
Their business was named "Hephaestus" after the Greek God of blacksmiths. Often the pieces they produced contained both their registered hallmarks , "T.A.P" and "C.P.T", both in elongated ovals.
After Peter Trigg retired in the eighties Tom went on to open his own shop in Hinkley Leicestershire, where he produced high quality unique pieces of jewellery. His work and those produced by "Hephaestus" remain much sought after by collectors today.
Above :Thomas Payne and Peter Trigg pyrite and silver pendant 1970 (image courtesy of johnkelly1800.co.uk)
Ernest Blyth was a talented British jewellery designer. He was influenced by the sleek modernist designs of Georg Jensen, and in particular the designs of Henning Koppel , who worked for Jensen.
The Tarrat company gained a reputation for quality silverware producing their collection from the 1960's into the 1980's.
Above: Ernest Blyth silver ring 14) STUART DEVLIN Although Stuart Devlin (1931-2018) was a native Australian born in Geelong, Australia, he went on to become a very important figure in British post war modernist jewellery design, living and working in the UK for the majority of his career. After high school, he obtained a position at Melbourne Art College where he studied for a Diploma in gold and silversmithing.
Above :Stuart Devlin gold and aquamarine ring and Stuart Devlin gold and aquamarine brooch
In 1958 he was awarded a scholarship to train at the Royal College of Art in London. After excelling at college he was awarded a fellowship and spent 2 years at Columbia University in New York before he returned to Australia to teach. Then in 1965 he moved to London where he opened a small workshop.
Above :Stuart Devlin 1978 gold necklace
He began designing jewellery in 1967, and became well know in the West End of London through the late 1960's and 1970's. Between 1979 and 1985 he produced a new collection every year from his showroom in Conduit Street.
He specialized in limited editions where he devised and adapted new techniques to produce a variety of detailed filigree forms and textures. In 1982, Devlin was granted the Royal Warrant of Appointment as Goldsmith and Jeweller to Her Majesty the Queen.
Devlin also worked with the Goldsmith's Company and was involved in creating a new institute for future goldsmiths, and other opportunities for young jewellers and goldsmiths. He retired to West Sussex in 2014 and died in 2018.
Gillian Packard, (1938-) became one of the leading British jewellery designers of the 1960's. Born in Newcastle upon Tyne, she undertook studies at Kingston School of Art, the Central School. and the Royal College of Art, London.
She entered competitions soon after graduating and won several awards. She received particular acclaim for her diamond and gemstone rings.
Above :Gillian Packard gold ring and 18 carat gold and diamond brooch gold
Her innovative designs were seen as particularly ground breaking for the time. She was well know for her elegant rings, and went on to create more organic jewellery pieces.
She set up a workshop in the West End of London in 1964 and acquired a loyal customer base . Although she employed six people she continued to design all the jewellery herself , producing jewellery for over 60 stores in England. One of her particularly innovative designs was an interlocking wedding and engagement ring.
Above :Gillian Packard gold and diamond bangle and brooch
She developed new ways of setting stones and was very specific about the colour and quality of stones used. In 1969 Packard became chairman of the British faction of the World Council for Applied Arts, and she also taught at the London Central School of Fine Arts.
Two of her designs can be found at the V and A Museum in London. Her work remains much prized by collectors today.
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