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The Ilustrated Guide to Finnish Silver Jewellery Designers

16/05/2019 10461 0 2

 

Interested in Finnish silver jewellery? Check out our illustrated guide to the top jewellery designers from Finland
 

1) Bjorn Weckstrom/Lapponia 


Bjorn Weckstrom (1935 -)  was a Finnish jewellery designer and sculptor. He originally wanted to train as a sculptor , however family opposition resulted in a change in direction.

He studied at Helsinki's Goldsmith school graduating  in 1956. At first his work reflected the clean Scandinavian design ethos , however by the 1960's, Weckstrom had developed his own style which was more sculptural than traditional goldsmithing.

,.Bjorn Weckstrom 1970 gold "flowering wall" necklace

Above: Bjorn Weckstrom 1970 gold "flowering wall" necklace 

Asymmetrical forms, rough matt surfaces, and uncut semi precious stones featured in his designs , often taking inspiration from the natural world.

In 1963 Weckstrom began working with jewellery manufacturer Kruunu-Koru Oy (who later became  Lapponia Jewelleryand its owner Pekka Antilla.

Bjorn Weckstrom, Lapponia 1974  "bridge to the moon bracelet"

Above: Bjorn Weckstrom, Lapponia 1974  "bridge to the moon bracelet" 


Weckstrom became the firms art director and designer. In 1969 he won first prize at a prestigious international jewellery competition in Rio De Janiero, Brazil, for his tourmaline and yellow gold necklace "Flowering Wall".

This important award brought recognition to the Lapponia firm and Scandinavian jewellery, and launched its success around the world. Three years later he was also the winner of the Lunning prize.

 Bjorn Weckstrom acrylic and silver pendant and ring, 1970's

Above: Bjorn Weckstrom acrylic and silver pendant and ring, 1970's

In the early seventies Lapponia launched the Flame Bronze Collection. This was  designed by Weckström and the collection comprised 7 pendants, 8 rings, 3 bracelets and 4 belts.

The name Flame Bronze was derived from the special patina surface of the pieces. Weckstrom successfully balanced his career between sculpture and jewellery.

He considered his bracelets, cufflinks, necklaces and rings as tiny sculptures.       

2) Matti Hyvarinen/Sirokoru


Matti Hyvarinen is a renowned and talented Finnish jewellery designer. He began his career working at his fathers workshop.

In 1958 at age of 21 he set up his own company Sirokoru producing his own particular style of jewellery.

.https://www.modernvintagestyle.co.uk/Matti-J-Hyvarinen-SIROKORU-bracelet

Above: Matti J Hyvarinen Sirokoru chunky Scandinavian silver bracelet

He has produced many items of beautiful jewellery featuring his distinctive , bold and modern designs.

He has won many jewellery awards from around the world including the RJA Presidents Display Award New York 1977, Goldsmith of the Year 1987  Finland, and the 15th Novum Calender Competiton Award, 1990 in Munchen.

The Sirokoru Ltd company continues to grow and produce beautiful jewellery.


Matti J Hyvarinen Sirokoru chunky Scandinavian silver ring  

Above: Matti J Hyvarinen Sirokoru chunky Scandinavian silver ring                                                                                                                    


3) Kuppittan Kulta

The Finnish company Kuppittan Kulta was at the forefront of Finnish jewellery design and their  visionary style launched Finland onto the international jewellery design stage .

Founded by Ellis Kauppi in 1945 at the age of 24, the company promoted a new style of jewellery.

. Kuppitan Kulta amethyst and silver pendant.

Above: Kuppitan Kulta amethyst and silver pendant.

Their bold modern sculptural forms rejected the naturalist leaf and flower designs of the 1940's. Local materials such a spectrolite and granite were incorporated in simple modern forms.

.Kuppitan Kulta green agate and silve ring

Above: Kuppitan Kulta green agate and silver ring

Their work attracted worldwide attention and they were the winners of several prestigious jewellery prizes . For more information see Kuppittan Kulta Jewellery. 


 4) Kalevala Koru


The Finnish company Kalevala Koru is renowned for their reproductions of historic jewellery artefacts discovered at archaeological sites.

Established in 1935 they began by producing replicas of Viking and crusader jewellery. They went on to become a major force in modern Finnish jewellery design. 

 Kalevala Koru bronze pendant

Above: Kalevela Koru bronze pendant

In the 1940's they held jewellery design competitions to celebrate new ideas in a very conservative post war market. The company  continued to highlight important links to the past .

They reproduced a  cast bronze pendant with a stylised Thor's hammer with typical little knobs (simplified versions of Scandinavian animal heads),  and dangling charms.

Reproductions of horseshoe brooches, which adorned men and woman during the 11th century crusades as cloak or veil fastenings were  produced.

The company continues today in the form of Kalevala (Kalevala.fi) with a range of contemporary jewellery  and historical style pieces.    .      

5) Pekka Piekainen


Pekka Piekainen  (1945 – 2004) was a leading Finnish silver jewellery designer. His parents owned a jewellery and watch store in Helsinki and he first learned his skills at his fathers workshop.

In the 1960'she began his career working with Kaunis Koru. He then moved on to Auran Kultaseppa (the second oldest silver factory in Finland), where he worked from 1971 to 1989, as head designer and artistic director.

Pekka Piekainen Finland lapis silver ring

Above: Pekka Piekainen lapis and silver ring

In the early nineties he started own business named PlatinOro. Piekainen's pieces exhibited a smooth, clean , sleek, timeless style with geometric shapes and lines. He produced many items including bracelets, rings,
earrings, silverware and bracelet watches.


Pekka Piekainen silver collar necklace

Above: Pekka Piekainen silver collar necklace

He also contributed to the watch designs of Omega, Tissot, and Lanco. In 1979 Piekainen was awarded the state design  prize, and in 2002 he was recognised as a Finnish pionneer by the Finnish Goldsmith Association for the first series of design watches made for large scale production. 

    Pekka Piekainen modernist silver ring
Above : Pekka Piekainen modernist silver ring

6) Kaija Aarikka


Kaija Aarikka  (1929-2014) ,studied textile design at the Industrial Arts school in Finland. After graduation she manufactured wooden buttons from the Finnish forests to go with her fabrics.

This progressed into functional wood and silver jewellery .She founded her company "Aarikka" with her husband Erkki Ruokonen in 1954.

Kaija Aarikka 1960s wood necklace

Above : Kaija Aarikka 1960s wood necklace

Many of the pieces were made of wood but she also used silver and glass in her designs.The functional  wood and silver jewellery was very successful in Sweden. 

One set in the 1960's featured distinctive silver earrings which used wire to curl around and into the ear like ear muffs, and also had a matching ring. 

In 1994, Kaija was awarded the prestigious Pro Finlandia Medal . Then in 1999, she was the recipient of  Finnish honorary title of ’kauppaneuvos’ by the then President of the Republic of Finland.

7) Bjorn Rajalin  

Bjorn Rajalin (1933- )studied art metalwork with Bertel Gardberg. In 1956 he became head designer for Kavela Koru where he made all the prototypes for serial production.

.Bjorn Rajalin  silver necklace for Kalevala Koru

Above : Bjorn Rajalin Scandinavian silver necklace for Kalevala Koru

In 1958 he, Berterl Gardberg, Ellis Kauppi, and Eero Rislakki took part in an avant garde exhibition which received great press attention and international recognition
for its participants.

Rajalin's contributions were clean and simple twists of silver around the neck and a hinged silver bracelet with a large spectrolite stone.

Bjorn rajalin amethyst necklace an earrings set

Above:Bjorn Rajalin amethyst necklace and earrings 1989 for Kalevala Koru

In the Sixties his style took a different direction. He produced less functional jewellery including  decorative bracelets with large clusters of garnet, rose quartz, and smokey quartz cabochons.

8) Hannu Ikonen

Hannu Ikonen's refined and striking jewellery designs have become iconic amongst modernist jewellery design.

Hannu Ikonen worked for the Finnish jewellery firm Valo-Koru during the 1970's producing pieces in both bronze and silver.


Above: Vintage Hannu Ikonnen silver reindeer moss bracelet

  His famous "Renmoosblüte" or reindeer moss pieces have a sculptural quality in their modern interpretation of natural forms.

The bronze jewellery pieces designed by Ikonen were usually marked "MADE IN FINLAND" and had no other marks. 

      Hannu Ikonen necklace
Above: Vintage Hannu Ikonnen  bronze reindeer moss necklace

9) Saara Hopea-Untracht


Saara Hopea-Untracht grew up in Porvoo, Finland, the oldest town in Finland, which has long been home  to an artistic community of artisans and writers.

Saara came from four generations of goldsmiths , however, she found contemporary jewellery to be uninspiring and she chose to study interior design, graduating from the Central School  of Industrial Design in Helsinki.

;Saara Hopea turquoise and silver "wing" ring

Above: Saara Hopea turquoise and silver "wing" ring - extends across three fingers

She worked with Kaj Frank, an internationally renowned designer at Notsjo glassworks from 1952, however, after her fathers death in 1958, her work changed direction from furniture and glassware towards jewellery design. She collaborated with goldsmith Goran Ahlberg who encouraged her unusual ring designs which had silver type wings spread across three fingers.

These rings were produced in limited editions of around 20 from 1958 to 1970. 

Saara Hopea silver chain necklace

Above: Saara Hopea silver chain necklace

After a trip to India Saara incorporated the traditional knitted silver chains she had seen there into her pendant and necklace designs, making the chains herself from specially drawn wire.

Her amazing detailed silver pendant "Two Birds" featuring two birds sharing a garnet berry was made of twisted silver wires, sheet metal, and flattened knitting tubes. 

Her early designs were influenced by geometric shapes, pyramids and domes seen in Indian Architecture. 

In 1983 Saara designed  serial production jewellery to go with Marimekko hand woven dresses. These oxidised silver pendants featuring gold plated roses were mounted on green or black, or pink Japanese silk cord and were sold at the Marimekko shop in Helsinki.

The makers mark seen on her jewellery pieces was generally "OH" for silver smith Ossian Hopea, the metal standard purity mark (830 or 925), along with the place mark for Porvoo, and the date letter. 

Married to the American author, photographer and artisan Oppi Untracht she spent some time living in New York before making Finland her home in1967. 

Saara Hopea – Untracht received silver medals at the MilanTriennial in 1954 and 1957, and in 1982, she was awarded the Finnish State Prize for Arts and Crafts .
       
10) Paula Haivaoja


Paula Haivaoja (1929-) graduated from the Institute of Industrial Arts in Helsinki in 1953 after studying fashion design. She began working with Kaunis Koru in 1957 where she produced simple structured silver and onyx rings.

In the Sixties she made silver bracelets for Kalevala Koru which spiralled up the arm , the separate parts moving with the wearer and reflecting the light.

Paula Haivaoja ring silver

Above: Paula Haivaoja silver modernist ring

She designed elegant rings with square cut crystals set in a pyramid within rings hanging from slim silver links.  In 1967 she opened her own shop where she could fully exhibit her talents as a fashion and jewellery designer, selling knits, silver cuffs and amazing unusual rings. She was known for her highly original designs.

 Paula Haivaoja necklace for Kaunis Koru

  Above: Paula Haivaoja necklace for Kaunis Koru

11) Sten and Laine

 

Sten and Laine was founded in the early Sixties near Turku , Finland by Hans Sten, and Karl Laine. Karl Laine's jewellery designs were inspired by peaceful observations of nature.

He worked in bronze at first, later progressing to silver. The use of metallic surfaces and the contrast between gloss and matt and angular and round were characteristic of his designs.

Sten and Laine 1980 rock crystal bangle

Above: Sten and Laine rock crystal and silver bangle

The jewellery was popular in both Sweden and Germany. The Finn feelings range was  typical of their serial  production of the 1970'S. The company continued to be successful  producing  both iconic Karl Laine designs as well of those of more contemporary designers.

The early designs of Karl Laine are most sought after by collectors.

        Karl Laine 1970 pendant and bracelet set

Above:   Karl Laine 1970's pendant and bracelet


12) Erik Granit
Erik Granit (1930-1988) opened his silversmiths workshop E Granit and Co in Helsinki in 1956  at the age of 26.

Erik Granit Finland, silver and tigers eye brooch

Above:   Erik Granit Finland, silver and tigers eye brooch

He produced a variety of abstract and minimalist modern jewellery designs , often  incorporating local stones from Finland such as amethyst and quartz.

He remained working at his own shop for over 30 years producing beautiful quality work which is much admired by collectors today.
  

13) Pentti Sarpaneva 

Pentti Sarpaneva (1925-78) was a Finnish Jewellery designer, and brother of Timo Sarpaneva glass designer. He studied in Helsinki at the School of Fine Art and the School of Industrial Art .

Pentti Sarpaneva Finland silver and crystal brooch 1970's

Above:  Pentti Sarpaneva Finland silver and crystal brooch 1970's

After this he worked initially at the Kalevala Koru company, and  later with Turun Hopea Oy specialising in affordable jewellery.

He was known for his original work. His jewellery displayed unpolished surfaces in a variety of different shapes, and he was  intrigued by the combination of glass and metal, evident in some of his smaller designs 

Many of his designs were made in silver, and gold, however his favourite material was  bronze.



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