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Vintage jewellelry has a unique charm particularly pieces from the 1920's to the 1940's. This era was marked by significant historical events that influenced fashion and jewellery design in fascinating ways.
For vintage jewellery buyers, understanding the key design features and history of these pieces can enhance your appreciation and inform your purchases
The period between the two World Wars was both challenging and an opportunity for jewellers.
The loss of a generation of young men and the economic instability from events like the 1926 General Strike in Britain and the 1929 stock market crash meant that customers' budgets were limited.
Jewellers had to innovate to remain relevant in a competitive market.
The Paris Exposition des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes of 1925 introduced the world to Art Deco, a style characterized by geometric shapes, streamlined forms, and a modern aesthetic.
Platinum became the foundation for these designs, allowing for delicate yet strong settings that showcased gemstones without the need for heavy metal prongs.
Jewels were described as 'smooth as a bit of silk and as supple,' reflecting the era's sleek, modern vibe.
Brooches and clips were essential accessories during this time. They were used to pin drapery on dresses, fix the folds of hats, and define necklines.
The late 1920s saw the invention of the clip fitting, which folded over fabric rather than piercing it. By 1933, clips were described as 'going like wildfire,' available in various styles from geometric shapes to stylised flowers and avant-garde designs.
Above : Art deco diamond and emerald double clip brooch
Jewellers faced the challenge of designing pieces that complemented the rapidly changing fashion trends. The modern woman of the 1920's and 30's wanted jewellery that fit seamlessly with her dress scheme, whether for daywear or lavish evening attire.
Goldsmiths Journal noted in 1927 that modern women loved jewellery just as much as their grandmothers but desired pieces that were lighter and fit better with the thin, new fabrics of the time.
Above : Cartier 1925 art deco emerald and diamond earrings
Jewellery design was not static during this period. Innovations included the creation of versatile pieces like double clips that could be worn as brooches, bracelets, or even bag clasps.
This versatility was essential as even wealthy customers wanted jewellry that could serve multiple purposes. Adaptable fixtures allowed pieces to be worn in new and interesting ways, keeping them relevant amidst changing fashions.
Above : Cartier emerald and diamond necklace and earrings
A significant trend of this period was the use of all-white jewellery, predominantly diamonds set in platinum. Platinum's strength and durability allowed for more intricate and delicate desig
It became the near-invisible foundation for close-set, geometric, and densely jeweled brooches and clips. These pieces were celebrated for their smooth, supple appearance, which mimicked the fluidity of silk.
Above : Platinum art deco diamond , black onyx and emerald brooch
Diamonds appealed not only because synthetic alternatives were not convincing but also because their brilliance complemented any background.
The monochrome look was sometimes accented with coloured gemstones like sapphires, rubies, and emeralds, often carved in the Indian style.
While diamonds and platinum dominated, the era also saw a rise in the use of less expensive materials to add color. Topaz, lapis lazuli, coral, and crystal became popular choices.
Despite crystal's tendency to shatter easily, it was in vogue during the 1930's and used to great effect in pieces like a stylized flower basket brooch made for Cartier.
Jewellery of this period was not just about standalone pieces; it was integrated into fashion in innovative ways. Brooches and clips were used on hats, shoulders, and even lingerie straps.
The Duchess of Westminster popularized the trend of pinning diamanté animals to felt hats, though this practice had its pitfalls, such as items falling off or getting stolen.
The technological advancements and artistic movements of the time also influenced jewellery design. The Union des Artistes Modernes, founded in 1929, aimed to create jewelry that reflected contemporary aesthetics.
Artists like Gérard Sandoz and Raymond Templier focused on simple, plain constructions without frills, inspired by modern machinery and urban landscapes.
Some unique pieces from this era include a diamond and platinum clip given to actress Adele Dixon, which exemplified Art Deco architecture, and a brooch given by the Rolls-Royce company to the wife of racing driver George Eyston.
These pieces not only showcase the era's design principles but also tell stories of the people and events they were associated with.
By the 1930s, the shift to longer, more draping dresses required jewellery that complemented these styles. The Goldsmiths' Journal noted that flowing dresses needed carefully selected pieces to complete the look.
This period also saw the rise of artists working outside mainstream houses, who drew inspiration from the modern world, including cities, cars, and airplanes.
By the mid-1930s, there was a renewed interest in gold and colored stones like rubies, topaz, and tourmalines. This brought a sense of the decorative, the romantic, and the ornamental back into vogue.
Jewellery was increasing in size, with large single stones or clusters of stones creating a solid mass of colour.
Article by Modern Vintage Style
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