Scottish Vintage and Antique Jewellery Designers Guide

Our article highlights key Scottish vintage and antique jewellery designers including designer history, concepts and  materials used.

JAMES CROMAR WATT 

James Cromar Watt was born in Aberdeen, Scotland in 1862 . He originally trained as an architect with W J Smith, Aberdeen, and George Aitchison in London.

In the 1890's he transitioned from architecture and began making jewellery in particular working with enamels.

Above: James Cromer Watt brooch from 1905 featuring green enamelled bands with foil backing. gold wire work scrolls, and turquoise stones.

He took inspiration from nature , from birds, flowers and wild creatures . Mythical winged creatures and serpents were also a feature in his work.

He used a variety of enamelling techniques , experimenting with the use of metal fragments, paillons (flecks of foil), and the grisaille technique of painted enamelling.

He often combined these techniques with another enamelling method where he built up layers of translucent colour to get the required effect.

Above: James Cromer Watt enamel, pearl and sapphire set  festoon necklace from 1905 

As well as enamel his detailed extravagant festoon necklaces and pendants featured pearls and semi precious stones such as turquoise, moonstones, opals, and sapphires. He mainly used cabochon set gemstones, although occasionally some cut gemstone can be seen in his work.

The settings used were normally 15 carat gold, - very few silver mounted pieces of his work have been found.

Above: James Cromer Watt arts and crafts enamel, pearl, and sapphire dragon pendant.

His enamel work was featured in the first exhibition of the Scottish Society of Art Workers in Glasgow in 1899.

He worked for private clients for over 30 years making various enamelled pendants, brooches, necklaces and plaques until poor eyesight forced him to stop  work. 

JESSIE MARION KING

Jessie Marion King was born in Glasgow in 1875. She studied at the Glasgow School of Art graduating with first class honours in 1902.

She was one of a group of women artists at the turn of the century known as “The Glasgow Girls”.

She had a successful career illustrating books and teaching but she was also talented in other artistic fields. 

Above: Jessie Marion King for Liberty enamel and silver necklace  c 1900.

She worked for Liberty's  store in the early 1900’s designing fabrics and wall paper and was commissioned to design jewellery soon after.

She designed the jewellery and the pieces were made by Liberty’s in house jewellers. Her work usually featured enamel and semi-precious stones sometimes with pearl dangles.

Above: Jessie Marion King belt buckle for Liberty silver and enamel circa 1906.

Some of her jewellery was Art Nouveau in style.  The colour pallete she used included blues, purples, and greens, and often featured leaf motifs.

King had an internationally recognised career and her work work is highly sought after by collectors and museums. 

GRAHAM STEWART

Graham Stewart , born in 1955  studied  Art and Design at Grays School of Art in Aberdeenshire. After periods of work experience with Malcolm Appleby and London Jeweller Roger Doyle, he eventually settled in Dunblane.                   

Above: Graham Stewart moonstone and diamond brooch and earrings 

In 1978 he opened his own workshop and gallery in Dunblane , Stirlingshire . Early jewellery lines included a series of silver bird brooches that were very popular. His reputation grew in the 1980's and he received many commissions becoming one of Scotland’s foremost contemporary gold and silversmiths.

Above: Graham Stewart silver swan brooch

He worked alongside his small team of highly skilled craftsmen producing innovative, sculptural, clean lined jewellery and silverware from fine quality functional silver to high profile presentation pieces.

Above: Graham Stewart moonstone and gold earrings 

One of these high profile pieces of sculptural silver was the Honours of Scotland sculpture which sits in the main hall of The Scottish Parliament building.

The fine jewellery he produced was often inspired by nature and the clean and simple organic lines of his jewellery made for striking pieces. 

GORDON WILLIAM STEVENS

Gordon William Stevenson was a Scottish jewellery designer and silversmith who produced interesting modernist jewellery.

His jewellery  displayed  sleek lines and smooth polished silver surfaces combined with  textured or granulated areas.

Above: Gordon William Stevens modernist textured brooch

From the mid 1960's to the mid 1970's he made one of a kind avant garde pendants, sterling silver brooches, and bracelets.

Above: Gordon William Stevens brooch

The pieces were signed with makers "GWS" for Gordon Willliam Stevens of Falkirk and had  Edinburgh silver hallmarks. His jewellery has  become much sought after and collectable in recent years.                                        

OLA GORIE

Ola Gorie was born in Kirkwall, Orkney. She attended Grays Art School in Aberdeen before returning to Orkney in 1960 to found the island’s first jewellery workshop and studio.

In the early days back in the 1960’s her inspiration came from the Celtic and Norse historical heritage of Orkney, in the Viking ruins and old medieval carvings on the island.

Above: Ola Gorie silver Cecily brooch

In later years in the 1980’s to 1990’s her admiration of the work of Glasgow art nouveau designer Charles Rennie Mackintosh and his wife Margaret was evident in her re interpretation of Mackintosh motifs in her jewellery designs. 

Above: Ola Gorie silver bird brooch

The beauty of the scenery and wildlife around her in her Orkney home always provided inspiration for her designs with owls, otters, puffins and flowers featuring in her work. 

 Above:Ola Gorie silver and enamel brooch

In 1999 Ola Gorie was awarded an MBE for her services to jewellery,

The business continues to flourish to this day and is now run by her daughter Ingrid Tait. 

Ola Gorie Website

MALCOLM GRAY 

Malcolm Gray was a silversmith and designer from Orkney who founded the Ortak jewellery company in 1967.

The company was an Orkney family business and  it went on to become the second largest employer on the island, and one of the pioneers of Scottish jewellery making.

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Above: Malcom Gray Ortak silver and agate brooch

The firm produced  many ranges of  jewellery over the years in silver and enamel, as well as silver brooches and pendants set with semi precious stones such as moss agate, amethyst, citrine and tigers eye.

The company was known for their craftsmanship and went on to became one of the UK’S main jewellery manufacturers. Malcom Gray's  jewellery was depicted by the signature “MG” .

PHOEBE ANNA TRAQUAIR 

Phoebe Anna Traquair was a Scottish artist who created murals, painted enamels, illuminated manuscripts ,embroidery, and jewellery

In 1901 she learned the art of enamelling from her friend Lady Carmichael. Over the next 10 years her enamels would be used to create beautiful jewellery , (notably necklaces and pendants) as well as triptychs in stands ,which were often designed by her architect son Ramsay.

Above: Phoebe Anna Traquair enamel pendant

Her fine enamel work was exhibited at the Arts and Crafts Exhibition in both Scotland and London and received much acclaim .
Her jewellery designs were inspired by religious or classical Renaissance subjects , often featuring angels watching over female figures.
Her pendants, necklaces and brooches would be set to her design by jewellers such as Hamilton and Inches, John Maitland Talbot and Brook & Sons.

NORMAN GRANT

Norman Grant was born in Forres Scotland in 1943. At age 18 he went  to study graphic design and then silversmithing at Grays School of Art in Aberdeen.
He began producing silver and enamel jewellery in his shed in the late sixties. He took inspiration from the environment and the coastal landscape around him. His work featured trees, flower motifs, waves and seaweed and clouds .

Above: Norman Grant 1970's pendant

Norman's work sold well at local jewellers and was then sought by London shops such as Harrods and Libertys.
His colourful design and pop art patters reflected the fashion style of the sixties .
In the seventies the art nouveau revival style can be seen in some of his colourful flower design pieces.

Above: Norman Grant pendants and brooches
Norman Grant became very successful opening his own workshop on the Fife Coast of Scotland. His early work is particularly sought after by collectors.
For more on Norman Grant see our article  - About Norman Grant Jewellery                                  

ALEXANDER RITCHIE                   

Alexander Ritchie was born in Tobermory on the Isle of Mull in 1856. After a 20 year career as a marine engineer travelling to many places worldwide he married his wife Euphemia at the age of 42.

He had met her at Glasgow School of Art where he had been studying during time off from his marine career. In 1900 he was given the job of official custodian of Iona Cathedral and he and his wife were allowed to erect a crafts hut in the ground of the Iona Nunnery ruins.

Living on the small Isle of Iona along with his wife, Ritchie produced a large output of work in brass, wood, copper and silver.

Their craft work was inspired by the old Celtic and Viking carvings on Iona and included fire screens, mirrors, clocks, and bowls along with many other items.

Above: Alexander Ritchie Iona silver cape clasps

By the 1930’s the Ritchie’s were producing high quality silver jewellery in terms of design and construction.  Many types of brooches, rings, buckles, kilt pins and Celtic cross pendants were sold.

Pendants and brooches featuring a viking ship were very popular.

Above: Alexander Ritchie enamel and silver bird necklace

Having originally been registered with The Chester Assay office in 1910,  by 1931 Ritichie's work was registered with the Birmingham Assay office as "Iona Celtic Art."

Most of the silver pendants, brooches and other Ritchie jewellery that appears for sale today is from the 1930’s era with the Birmingham hallmark.

Today Alexander Ritchie and his wife Euphemia are today seen as the greatest pioneers of the Celtic Crafts Revival.

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