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The main sources of inspiration for early Scandinavian jewellery were the Norse and Crusaders legends.
The Viking era which lasted from around the late eighth to the 11th century was fundamental in shaping the direction of early Scandinavian jewellery design.
Above: Viking silver arm rings - 10th century
The Vikings were a sea faring civilisation comprised mainly of fishermen, farmers, hunters and skilled craftsmen.
They traded goods with Europe, Asia and Russia where they exchanged items including ivory, amber, and furs for luxury goods such as fine textiles, wine and pottery.
In AD 973 they raided the monastery at Lindisfarne in England. This was the beginning of a series of raids on Britain.
In the middle ages the word “viking” was known as a “Scandinavian raider” or “pirate”.
Above: Viking brooch - 10th century
In Viking times it was common for both men and women to wear jewellery. In the early days of the Viking era jewellery was quite simple, however as the years progressed it became more detailed and sophisticated .
Above: Viking bronze pendant - 9th century
Made from materials such as gold, silver , bronze and iron, Viking jewellery displayed stylised animal and geometric designs with elaborate granulation and filigree work.
The designs were full of symbolism reflecting the Viking’s pagan beliefs, and their connection to Norse gods, mythology, nature and the sea.
Above: Viking animal head brooch - 11th century
The jewellery they wore included, necklaces, pendants , brooches, and arm rings. The jewellery was not just for decoration. It also served as a display of identity, status, and wealth.
Central to Viking jewellery were bands made of hammered rods of metal. These were either plain, simply twisted, or more elaborate bands with detailed plaited designs.
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Above: Viking gold plaited arm ring - 10th century
The bands appeared simple in design but were actually difficult to create given the tools available at the time.
Skilled artisans were able to produce beautiful but robust designs that were not just for decoration but could be passed down through families as heirlooms.
Rings were important items of Viking jewellery, though finger rings were not worn until the later part of the Viking era. Many rings were penannular and open ended allowing them to fit on different sizes of fingers.
Rings often featured knot designs such as the marriage knot or Hercules’ knot - a strong knot formed by two interlinked ropes.
Above: Gold viking finger ring- 10th century
Neck rings were another piece of jewellery believed to be worn by both men and women. Sometimes these would be used as currency in trade.
Above: Viking neck ring - 10th century
The neck rings were made in standard units of weight for easier valuation in transactions.
The Vikings would use generally use jewellery as portable currency and would hack of parts when required to pay for goods. These parts were known as “hack-silver”, or “hack-gold”.
During the Middle Ages Scandinavian jewellery design underwent significant transformation. The Influence of the Christian faith which had spread across the region around the 10thcentury was reflected in the jewellery design.
Religious symbols such as crosses and saints featured heavily, a departure from the earlier pagan themes.
Scandinavian royalty and the church became major patrons to skilled artisans. This led to the creation of luxurious jewellery that showcased status and wealth.
The materials of choice were gold and silver. The pieces were embellished with detailed gemstones settings to signify power and devotion.
Artisans used different techniques such as enamelling and cloisonne to create vivid colour and strong lasting impressions.
The establishment of the guild system meant that artisans were trained though apprenticeships which allowed the continuation of the high standards of craftsmanship.
With the emergence of the Renaissance period (14 th to 16thcentury) Scandinavian jewellery design went through further change .
Artisans took inspiration from ancient Greek and Roman styles. Mythological figures and natural motifs were seen in their work.
New techniques also emerged, with the use of casting and repousse. These techniques allowed for greater refinement in the jewellery making process.
As exploration and trade expanded during the Baroque period (17thcentury), the types of material available to the artisans increased.
Designs became more theatrical and ornate with the use of exotic gemstones and detailed and opulent gold work. Designs featured elaborate embellishments and carvings reflecting the grandeur of the era.
The art nouveau movement in Europe (from around 1890 to 1910) did not have much impact in Scandinavia, however the Art Deco geometric influence could be seen in the work of Swedish designers Wiwen Nilsson and Sigurd Persson.
In the period from 1900-1925 the Danish developed their own version of what we know as the Arts and Crafts Movement, It was called “skonvirke".
Above: Danish arts and crafts "skonvirke" brooch by A. Gold
This period saw artists equally at home in graphics, sculpture, architecture or jewellery design.
The Danish Museum of Decorative Arts supported artists with exhibitions and purchases.
They arranged exhibitions of work from foreign artists such as Charles Ashbee and Rene Lalique.
Although the work of these artists was much admired it was never totally emulated and “skonvirke” had a style of its own.
The Norwegians used enamel in their silver jewellery, while the Danish preferred semi precious stones.
The Danish workshops founded in 1900 by Evald Nielsen, Mogens Ballin and Georg Jensen gave an outlet to the new ideas of craftsmen and women.
Danish artists progressed from designs with smooth silver surfaces to a more handcrafted hammered look.
This eventually moved on to machine stamped and press moulded jewellery which reduced serial production costs but was more of commercial than aesthetic value.
Silver and jewellery manufacturers such as Bernard Hertz, A Dragsted, and Anton Michelsen produced jewellery which was designed by independent artist as well as their own in house designers.
This allowed the export of mass market jewellery across Sweden, Norway and Europe.
Above: Danish Bernard Hertz amber and 826 silver brooch from 1910
The leading name at the forefront of Danish silver and holloware design in the 20th century was Georg Jensen.
He working as an apprentice to a goldsmith at age 14 , followed by several years in a technical school.
Then he spent 12 years studying sculpture and ceramics before being hired as a journey man in 1901 by the Mogens Ballin workshop.
By 1904 he was focused on sculpting in silver and opened his own workshop.
After sucessful exhibitions in Germany and Denmark he was soon exporting to Paris and London.
His own work featured silver designs in high relief with amber, coral, carnelian, garnet, or lapis stones as contrasting features bursting from swirling silver leave designs.
The Jensen firm ethos was to employ excellent innovative designers to continue to renew the company with fresh ideas.
Designers such as Hans Hansen, Bent Knudsen, Bent Gabrieslsonn, Henning Kopell, and Torun Hoblow were just some of the renowned designers who worked for the Jensen firm.
Above: Georg Jensen silver grapes brooch 217B
As the years progressed towards the mid twentieth century much of the work produced by Jensen designers displayed more of the cool sculptural , minimalist style that is associated with modern Scandinavian jewellery. The designers created sculptural pieces that were both elegant and practical.
The company continues to employ new innovative designers, and remains at the forefront of Scandinavian silver jewellery and holloware design to this day.
The mid to latter part of the twentieth century saw a change in Scandinavian jewellery design towards functionality and minimalism. This was inspired by modernist principles and the ethos of the Bauhaus Movement. As well as being functional the jewellery displayed simple , clean sculptural lines.
Above: Rare Bent Knudsen silver necklace 1973
Scandinavian jewellery is appreciated throughout the world for its craftsmanship and style with particular designers much prized by collectors.
For more on collectable Scandinavian jewellery designers see our article https://www.modernvintagestyle.co.uk/The-Ultimate-Guide-to-Danish-Jewellery-Designers
