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Our guide to the most collectable American vintage costume jewellery brands . Includes key styles and designer signatures to look out for.
Kenneth J Lane worked for Vogue and Christian Dior before starting his own jewellery business in 1963. Lane's design were bright, bold, and colourful taking inspiration from Egypt and the Renaissance as well as Roman, Asian and Oriental influences.
Above: Kenneth J Lane vintage necklace and pearl and crystal panther bracelet
They were worn by the stars of the day including Jackie Kennedy and Elizabeth Taylor. The jewellery was well made using quality materials. The designs were intricate with gilt base metal and faux cabochons used to resemble semi precious stones. Figural motifs including gods and goddesses, dancers, snakes and buddhas often featured.
Above: Kenneth J Lane 1960's faux pearl necklace and 1980's crystal leopard brooch
Lane's collectable "big cat" pins of the 1960's were inspired by Cartier's panther pieces designed by Jeanne Toussaint. He often created replicas of items made by fine jewellers such as Cartier and Bulgari. Lane was well know for decorative chandelier type earrings and extravagant paste necklaces. His designs prior to 1970's were marked "K.J.L." After the 1970's they were marked "Kenneth J Lane" or "Kenneth Lane"
Eugene Joseff designed jewellery for the stars. He took historical precedents and reinterpreted them, making them larger than life so they could be clearly seen on movie screens. He trained as a jewellery designer in Los Angeles in the the late 1920's , with his career really taking off in 1931.
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Above: Joseff of Hollywood Vivien Leigh "Gone With The Wind" necklace set and Joseff of Hollywood earrings worn by Marilyn Monroe when promoting the film "Gentlemen Prefer Blondes"
He began producing one of a kind historically accurate pieces which he rented to the Hollywood film studios. He opened his own store "Sunset Jewellery" in Hollywood in 1935, and throughout the 1940's was the main costume jeweller to Hollywood. His jewellery appeared in numerous films including A Star is Born in 1936, Gone with the Wind in 1939, and Casablanca in 1942.
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Above: Joseff of Hollywood 1950's Russian gilt curl necklace and and iconic moon god earrings
KRAMER JEWELLERY
Louis Kramer started his costume jewellery company "Kramer Jewellery Creations" in New York in 1943. He worked with his brothers to provide a wide range of costume jewellery at every price point. The designs were extravagant in nature reflecting the well dressed glamourous style of the 1950's.
Above: Kramer crystal wreath brooch 1950s and Kramer for Christian Dior art glass necklace suite
High end pieces used the best Swarovski crystals along with extensive used of pave rhinestone and diamante crystals creating amazing sparkle. Other materials used were textured glass, crystal beads, faux pearls and simulated jade, lapis, sapphire and ruby. Gold plate settings were used in the 1950's, with silver plate used in the 1960's to give an icy "Diamond Look.
Above: Kramer rhinestone glass flower necklace
In the early 1950's Kramer began to manufacture jewellery for Christian Dior in America. Dior appreciated Kramer's skill and artistry. These items were signed "Dior by Kramer" or "Kramer for Christian Dior" and are much prized by collectors.
Kramer's own high end pieces were signed "Kramer" or "Kramer of New York". The lower end pieces were simply tagged "Kramer NY". From the late 1950's onwards items were marked "Kramer" in a triangular or oval plaque.
HATTIE CARNEGIE
After emigrating to the US from Austria with her family at a young age, Hattie Carnegie went on to established he own company "Hattie Carnegie Inc" in 1918 . The business initially sold clothes and hats with jewellery being added to accessorise the outfits. Carnegie's designs were innovative and she did not follow the trend for copying fine jewellery. Her early designs were brooches in gold vermeil or base metal.
Above: Hattie Carnegie 1950's rhinestone necklace and Hattie Carnegie 1960's lion brooch
The were big abstract retro designs and enamel figural pieces of animals or human faces. By the 1930's she was a big name in the fashion world. Stars of the day including Joan Crawford and Tallulah Bankhead were fans of her jewellery. Other designers were employed to create her pieces with the designs including floral and fruit motifs, Oriental figures and stylised animal pins.
Above: Hattie Carnegie 1970's Egyptian scarab necklace and enamel and faux turquoise and crystal pendant
Carnegie is well known for her trembling necklaces featuring flowers and butterflies on springs which vibrated as the wearer moved. Materials used were faux pearls, poured glass, rhinestones, and plastic stones or beads with enamelled, silver or gold plated bodies.
Famous and valuable designs included the dramatic 1960's Antelope pin inspired by primitive art. Other collectible designs include clowns, circus horses, butterfly pins and chandelier earrings. Signature marks include "HAC" or "HC" within a diamond shape, or "Hattie Carnegie" or "Carnegie".
MIRIAM HASKELL JEWELLERY
The "Miriam Haskell Company" was established in 1926 with Frank Hess being appointed as lead designer. Hess's designs were innovative and glamourous and Haskell's reputation grew. In the 1930's Haskell opened sales outlets at Macys 5th Avenue in New York and Harvey Nichols in London.
Above: Miriam Haskell 1950's aquamarine crystal bid necklace and Miriam Haskell 1950's brooch and earrings
She employed talented artists from Europe in the 1920's and 30's and maintained very high standards of components, design and craftsmanship. During the 1940's and 50's Frank Hess made handmade intricate designs featuring rhinestones, baroque and seed pearls and a particular combination of coloured beading onto antique filigree backs that became know as Haskell's signatures style.
Above: Frank Hess for Miriam Haskell crystal necklace and Miriam Haskell 1960's gilt and bead drop earrings
Nature was a main inspiration in the form of foliate, floral, and butterfly designs. Robert F Clark became lead designer after Hess and was well know for his festoon necklaces and bibs, chunk chokers and love of symmetry. His glamourous designs often featured mother of pearls and pearlised metals. Larry Vrba became the head designer in the 1970's and was known for his elaborate, oversized colourful designs. Haskell did not begin to trademark her work until the 1940's. After 1940. the signature "Miriam Haskell" within an oval was used
STANLEY HAGLER JEWELLERY
The Stanley Hagler Jewellery Co. was established in New York in 1953. Having worked previously as a business advisor to Miriam Haskell he was influenced by Frank Hess' designs . Hagler's work featured intricate floral motifs, figural work such as butterflies, and Oriental inspired themes.
Above: Stanley Hagler crystal and bead necklace crystal and brooch and earrings set
He was famous for his use of luminous faux baroque pearls which were dipped 15 times in pearl resin and individually strung to highlight their quality. Other components used were Murano hand blown art glass stones, Swarovski crystals in clear vibrant colours, seed beads and pearls, and Russian gold plated filigree settings. His attention to detail resulted in opulent high quality pieces.
Above: Stanley Hagler black glass and faux seed pearl costume necklace and Stanley Hagler Christmas Tree brooch
His designs were often adaptable, accessories could be added to earrings to change the look. His "wardrobe necklace" comprised three strand of pearls held together with an oval gold vermeil clasp. Each of the strands could be worn separately or in different combinations. His 1950's Christmas tree brooches were much admired and his range of bejewelled crosses were also very popular. From the 1950's to 1983 the jewellery was marked "Stanley Hagler" across an oval disk. From 1983 until 1993 it was "Stanley Hagler N.Y.C." on the curve of an oval, with "Stanley Hagler N.Y.C" being used from 1993 onwards.
CINER JEWELLERY
Ciner was founded by Emmanuel Ciner in New York in 1892. His company produced fine jewellery, however in 1930 he began to make top quality costume jewellery. The jewellery was designed to resemble fine jewellery .
Above: Ciner panther bracelet and Ciner 1960s rhinestone faux gem necklace
He used gold tone metals set with natural coloured Swarovski rhinestones. Other components were rich enamels and faux pearls which were specially made for the company by Japanese artists. Elizabeth Taylor and other stars of the day were fans of Ciner jewellery.
HOBE JEWELLERY
Hobe was founded in the mid 19th century in Paris by Jaques Hobe who was a jeweller and master goldsmith at the French Court. With the advent of mass production and industrialisation Hobe began to produce costume jewellery with the same high standards he applied to the fine jewellery.
Above: Hobe 1930's baroque style bangle and Hobe 1930's necklace
In 1927 his grandson Willliam Hobe started "Hobie Cie" in the United States continuing the family business. William Hobe took inspiration from historical European jewellery designs . From the 1920's to the 1950's his use of semi precious stones set him apart from others at the time.
He used lapis, chrysoprase, jade, amethyst, garnet and agate, combined with pearls and ivory panels. He produced portrait miniatures and ivory oriental works as well as acclaimed reproductions of 16 and 17th century precious jewellery. His bouquet pins using a variety of quality pastes and semi precious stones were very popular in the 1930's and 40's, and remain so today .The stones were set in silver plate, vermeil or platinum settings.
His jewellery was more expensive than typical costume jewellery. By the 1950's Hobe was a big name and supplied jewellery to the stars including Ava Gardener and Bette Davis. Later work saw Hobe using paste and base metals to produce glitzy designs similar to Weiss and Kramer , however the quality of the craftsmanship remained so these late pieces are still in demand by collectors.
HAR JEWELLERY
Har jewellery was founded in 1955 by husband and wife team Joseph Heibronner and Edith Levitt. Har designs were noticeable for their unusual and distinctive metalwork. The company was known for their production of exotic forms such as snakes, genies, and dragons, and African or Oriental forms.
Above: HAR 1960's hinged dragon bracelet and
The designs often used Swarovski aurora borealis crystals with the metalwork having a matt antique finish. The company only produced small production runs , this together with the exotic designs mean that the jewellery is highly collectible today and can fetch very high prices.
Particularly collectable pieces are the enamelled "Monkey" Pin, the "Dragon " design with its gold tone and green enamelled base and iridescent stones, and the "Cobra" pieces. The company also produced novelty jewellery featuring flowers, leaves, fruits and vegetables, Sometime after 1955 the company changed hands and was named "Art". The original designs were signed "Har". Later designs which were revisited by the new owners were marked "Art".
EISENBERG JEWELLERY
Eisenberg was known as one of the top costume jewellery companies of the 1930s and 40's due to its excellent craftsmanship and stunning use of Swarovski crystals. Eisenberg Original was the early jewellery line featuring large free flowing paste designs with asymmetrical swirls and bows.
During the 1940's base metals were restricted for war use so the Eisenberg company began using sterling silver with their designs becoming more detailed and lighter. The head designer from 1940 until 1972 was Ruth Kramer.
Above: Eisenberg blue crystal bracelet and Eisenberg floral spray brooch
She created all the "Eisenberg Originals" and the "Eisenberg Ice" range. The trend in the 1950's was for a feminine look. Eisenberg used richly coloured crystals to create feminine necklace and earring demi parures. Eisenberg designs were very popular for their clean lines and craftsmanship.
Materials used were Swarovski rhinestones, simulated glass stones, and faux pearls along with silver and gold plated metal and sterling silver. The type of brooches produced were art deco medallion types, as well as more organic abstract forms.
Above: Eisenberg Ice demi parure
Popular items were ballerina, mermaid and animal pins as well as characters for children's stories such as Puss in Boots.
The "Topaz Quartz" jewellery they made comprising citrine set sterling silver pieces are very collectable. Particularly rare are the 1994 Xmas Tree pins featuring aurora borealis rhinestone in two colourways.
From 1930 to 1945 the jewellery was signed "Eisenberg Original". From the mid 1940's onwards the signature was "Eisenberg Ice". From 1943 to 48 sterling silver jewellery was marked "Eisenberg Sterling". From 1952 to 1970 many items of jewellery were unmarked.
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